Tuesday, August 27, 2013

Crochet Circle Skirt

I finished this a while ago but never got around to posting it. I found the diagram through pintrest (here) and really wanted to make one. I made it with smaller thread and has anticipated make 2 tiers but made just one can called it a mini skirt.
I changed the last couple of rows because when I followed the chart it got all bunched up and looked really bad. Here I will show you what I changed, how I added the waist, and how I sewed the underskirt.

Materials I used
-Cotton Thread Size 10
-Steel Hook Size 2

I want to point out that you can/should (it's pretty short) make the skirt longer by adding more of the beginning rows (1,2 and 3).

When I got to this point: (ignore the ruler, this test bit was made with a smaller hook)
I began to dc 5 into every dc as well as in the spaces at the top of the pineapple. There are no chains between the 5dc.

For the second round, slip stitch until at the top of one of the shells, then 5dc again. The tricky part here, which makes a bobble, is where you put the 5 dc. It is in the space between the the last stitches, picking up at vertical bar as shown below. You go into one stitch and then come out of another. This was my last row but I guess you can make another shell/bobble row using the same method.

To attache the waist (I don't have any pictures but it's pretty simple)  just dc into the bottom/middle of the circle you just made. Mine came out a little big so I didn't dc in every stitch.

I made it so that one side (the back) was longer than the other to accommodate my butt. How I did this was to find the middle of the dc row that I had just made, and sc on half, increase with 1 hdc, and dc the other half. I did this on every other row so it was like this:

Beginning row all dc
sc half, increase with hdc, dc the other half, decrease with hdc, join
Dc all around
sc half, increase with hdc, dc the other half, decrease with hdc, join

And so on...
I did this until I thought it was good and then just dc the rest of the way around.

To  make the skirt it's just a simple circle skirt. I made it start from the bottom of the waist band. I ended up using about a centimeter for hemming because it was easier to make a small hem with the round shape. I cut more off than what you can see in the picture but it is better to have extra than not enough.
I used this tutorial to sew the hemmed circle skirt to the crochet skirt.

Final comments, the waist is slightly see through so I might have made it with sc instead but then it would not have been as stretchy, so that is really up to however wants to make it. Would have made it a little longer if I had know I was just making one tier. Other than that I really like how it came out and I have gotten lots of compliments whenever I wear it out.

Any questions? Just ask!


Tuesday, July 30, 2013

Crochet or Knit Rectangle Sweater/Shrug

I have seen some pictures of a cute sweater that crosses over in the front. This is very simple and can be made in a weekend, using any size or type of yarn, it's just a rectangle. The 9 inches comes from taking half of the length from the bottom of the neck to the hip (or wherever you want it to end).

Monday, July 8, 2013

Crochet Moccasins/Loafers

I wanted to make a pair of shoes and found this pattern on ravelry, made it once and then went back a made it again with some modifications.

I used a size F hook
The yarn I used was cotton, Red Heart, not sure exactly of the name, 2 skeins 

This is smaller than what the pattern asks for so:
-add 1 ch to the staring row of the sole
-Sc 8 rows along the side 
Here are the modifications I made
-Make the flap longer (start with 1 less ch than in the pattern, also no back look only row, about 20 rows total)
-Make a row of sc around the flap before attaching it, looks neater
- increase rows on the heel, as show. 5 stitches on each side (double the picture)
-Decrease the st so that it is sloped at the heel
-> Each row sc2tog at the end of the hill, more or less if necessary
-Along the top, for a braid/ribbon, sc, skip1 chain1, sc. Thread a cord through this

To join the top to the sides, it becomes easier with the sc on the flap
Just line them up right sides out and sew in and out like in the diagram
I start at the middle and leave a long thread to go back and do the other side, that way I know that it is centered.
Eventually I want to make a sole (same pattern) out of either twine or plastic and sew it on so that I can wear them outside and not just around the house.

Sunday, July 7, 2013

Overview - Small Antler, from knitting to crochet

For the person on reddit asking for help I took a couple pictures of something I worked up to look like the antlers in your pattern.
I made this with the only yarn/needle I have right now (on vacation)  so I would definitely use smaller yarn and hook but the concept is the same 
Start of the with a chain in the round
 Build up, in rows not spiral. Here I decreased 2 times on the middle row. If you are making it with smaller yarn/hook then you will want to decrease more often.
 When you get to where you want the first antler to start then do not finish  all the row (I skipped 2 st) and turn to crochet. Do this until it is as tall as you want (I did 2 rows). Again, if smaller yarn, more stitches.
 When you get to where you want it to be, chain and join. So in my case ch 2.
NOTE: the difference between the last picture and this one is only the ch 2
 Decrease as you want, and repeat the hole-making procedure.
Decrease until you have only a few st left and pull through them and fasten off
(My yarn is was too thick and hook to small to do this right but with smaller yarn this would look more pointy)

 Cast on around the holes (you can take this as an opportunity to decrease as well if you want. I started working in a spiral because why not
 Single stitch around, decreasing when you want, again make the tip as small as possible.
I didn't do the 2nd one because it is literally the same proccess.

Hope this helps

Wednesday, July 3, 2013

Little Filet Crochet Bag/Pouch

It was a co-workers birthday so I decided I wanted to make a litle bag for her. Initially I wanted to go with Victorian-esque vintage look but I could not find any nice patterns,  So I decided to go with her love of cats instead.
In this post I will give the pattern for the pouch as well as how to sew the lining inside.
Here is what it looks like:


 I worked this in simple filet crochet, if you don't know what that is this is a good source, it is working in little squares which you can choose to fill in or not.
What you need:
Size 10 thread
Size 2 steel crochet hook
Needle and Thread
Fabric (I used muslin) 
No embellish knit, i replaced the cords with a braid 

I made the pouch 14 squares long and 18 high.
I started from the top of the picture side and continued to make the back side at the same time (ended with 14x36)

Here is the cat I used, I get it from somewhere online but I could not find it again so I recreated it

I had no idea how to do the triangles so I don't know if this is the proper way, but I crocheted 4 dc into one st, like this:

When I had finished the rectangle I did not cut off the end but just folded it in half and started joining it from the top.
To join: sc 2 in gap (chain/dc) , 1 sc in the row.

After the round of sc's, go back with the shell stitch, dc5 in one st, skip 2, sc, skip2, 5dc...
It was off by maybe 2 stitches so I shortened 2 skip2 spaces into skip1, only do this if necesarry   

Once this is done go in with single a row of single crochet (2 in space, 1 in dc) , ignoring the shells
2 rows of dc 
1 row in filet, with every other one filled
2 more dc rows
Shell stitch up top
Fasten off.

Pin it down (I used a pillow) while stretching it at the same time, take an iron and put it on the highest steam setting, go over it with the steam, you don't actually have to iron it down

To  make the inside:

Measure out what size you want it to be, add a half inch on every side that you are going to have a seam 

Sew 2 rectangle together (use one big one and fold in half if you can so you only have to sew 2 side. Leave about enough space at the top to make another seam. Make 2.
To sew them together so that there are no visible seams you want to have the right sides together on the inside (Turn 1 right side out and put it inside the other)
Sew the top seam together, but make sure to leave a hole so that you can turn it right side out. 
Once you have turned it, sew up the hole left over, it should look like this:
Iron it down, so that it looks presses and more professional.

To sew it in I used the method from this tutorial, using the 1st sc row at the top  

I ended up going with braids, not the i-cord seen in the picture, but you can use anything ribbon etc. 
Weave in a cord so that it hang out of one side, do to the same with the opposite side, this way when you pull on both sides it closed up nicely,

Final Notes:
-You can use any design, just get a piece of graph paper and  play around
-I should have used more contrasting thread and fabric combination to see the picture a little better
-I would have made it a little bigger, this in only good for maybe a cell phone and a small wallet
-I'm going to add a strap so that it becomes an over the shoulder purse 

Hope this was helpful

Tuesday, June 11, 2013

Crochet Circle Jacket

So I wanted to make one of those circle jacket's... I didn't make the pattern but I changes one around a bit so I'll show what I did. I took this pattern and added a bigger and more decorative trim around the edge.

Materials Used:
-2 skeins Red Heart "With Love" 7oz
-H/5mm hook

Here it is:

First: The pattern from drops yas meant for larger yarn and hook, I am  usually a small but I ended up using the M/L size.

Second, the because I was putting together 2 patterns the circle came out a little lumpy, no worries I know how to fix it but my wrists were too tired to take it all out and do it again.

This is the pattern I used on the border: (with my modifications)

After making the arm holes I did 3 more rows.
As shown in CIRCLE 1, in every ch 6 space I dc 4 also 1 dc in each sc

For CIRCLE 2. To start the border I started with the first triangles (dc 5 into 1), just as in the picture, leaving the same amount (3) in between. I was only 2 st off, but still count how many stitched you have and see if it is divisible by 8.

For the border I didn't use the entire pattern. Dc 4 into the the ch 2 space so that it's not too lumpy (I did 6) and ch 5 in between (I did 6) to keep it tighter.

Dc the entire next row (dc 5 into the ch 5 space)

Dc an other row (if you want to add a button, leave a space between these two rows in the appropriate spot)

For the sleeves I wanted to end with 2 dc rows so that the style would flow a little more. Slip st until you get to be in the ch space. Ch 3 to start, end with 3 dc in each space, no dc in the sc.

I blocked (ironed between 2 towels) it when I finished, make it a lot more 'drape-y'

Pin closed with a brooch, I had a hair pin handy

Not my best work but a fun 2 day project (this goes super fast)


Saturday, June 1, 2013

How To Make Your Own Crochet Bathing Suit

Hey everyone! So in spirit of summer time I wanted to crochet a bathing suit. I've been seeing lots of really pretty ones on pintrest and decided to make one for myself. Through a google search I found that lot's of them (sold by different stores) were more or less the same pattern. Here is what mine turned out to look like.  [Sorry for the bad picture quality but I had to take them myself with my phone]


I got the inspiration from this bathing suit here. Just in case the link breaks it's from chynnadolls and here are the pictures. The website has lots of cool bathing suits that [i think] are pretty easy to copy. 

So here is how to do it:
There are 3 parts, the bottom, the top, and the middle. I started off with the bottom and worked up. 

What you need:
-2 skeins of size 10 crochet thread
-Size 7 steel crochet hook 

For the bottome I used this diagram. This is meant for larger threads so I increased by 4 (dc 3 into first and last st) on every row. The back of the bottom piece came out very thin, I personally like it that way but for the more modest I reccomend experiments with adding more dc's (maybe increase 6 one row and 4 the next?)

So that it fit me I took a bathing suit I use all the time and kept comparing it to that as well as trying it on occasionally. The tops you have to make straight (only dc, not increase) so that you can connect them on the side. In the picture from which I copied the pattern this was bigger on the back but mine ended up being the same. Again, this all depends on your size and what angles you want to use. 

It came out like this. You can see from where there are threads that I started in the middle, went up one way to finish that side, picked up the stitched on the bottom and started working up again. 

To attached the sides I used a dc, ch1 type thing. I'm sure there is a name fore it but I drew it on the picture just in case. I just picked up the stitches on the side one the back side (thats where I was) 

To attach it I used a flat seam that I learned from here. I did a chain 1 in the middle of the joins so that it would pair up with the dc's. It looked like this. The side shown is the 'back' side. Make sure that both sides are the same. 

I added 2 rows of the same dc ch dc ch to the top of the bottom piece 

For the ruffled look on the back I just weaved a piece of thread down the middle, pulled it and tied it. I only went about 3 in. though, not sure if I like it so I might take it out. 

For the fun part here is how I did it. 

All of  what would normally be dc are tdc (triple double crochet)

EDIT: I've added some more info

I didn't do all of it but put in the important stuff. In case you've never done a pineapple motif before what you do if 11 tdc into the space shown above, then 11 tdc with a chain between each one, then you sc into the first one ch5 sc into next ch5 and so on. Look up a normal chart to see what I'm talking about. 

So looking at the pattern I had no idea how to start it because when working with the pineapple motif the side parts have to align to a previous row that has those bumps. So what I did was just to make the loopy things separate, like this:

They are all ch6 with a sc in every other dc. 

 Notice that I found the middle and left 3 dc with nothing on them. Later the middle of these three will have the tdc clusters in it. 

Here is me starting the 'second' row 

I planned it out starting from the left. Skip one dc, put cluster in next, skip dc, put first tdc in next.
The tdc are a space and a  half away from each other so that one is in the dc and the next is in the space. I made 7. You chain up 4 and right 2 when starting a row, so ch 6. 

Work until finished. I kept putting it on to see how much I had left to go since the top part is the same you can go as long as you need to. 

For the cups I used this pattern. Instead of ch2 at the top I only did one ch so that the space was smaller. I'm sure its pretty obvious that I only did the cup part and not the part to the right. Make the chain approximately the same size as from the bottom of your boob to the middle nipple area.

This makes an actual cup-like top. If you are more flat chested than I am you might want to just make a triangle, pretty simple I'm sure there are lots of examples online. Here is what they look like 


To joing the cups to the piece I kind of just made it up. I aligned them then did a sc and ch combo on the wrong side. It looks like this but feel free to come up with your own way to connect it. I was pretty fed up at this point and just wanted to finish it. 

For the straps I found this thing called the Romanian lace cord, looked up a video on youtube and connected

I would be glad to answer any questions through the comment section. Hope this is useful for someone!


Sunday, May 12, 2013

Cute Crochet Ring Using the Slip Stitch

So this project is fast and simple, its a crochet ring. It is made with back loop slip stitches. The flower on top is made with double crochets and slip stitches. (Sorry I used white, its a little hard to see but it's the only color in this size that I had)

To start I used size 10 cotton thread and a size 4 steel crochet hook.

This is how we want to start (instead of a knot) when working with slip stitches. Remember to leave some extra thread for later use. 

Chain until its long enough to wrap around a finger (give a little extra because it tightens up a little). The first row is worked differently then the rest. Turn the chain over so that it looks backwards, and insert the hook into the the middle lump. Slip stitch the entire row.

 Once you are done with the first row, the place where you insert the hook changes. This will be continuous. You want to insert the hook into the back loop of the chain shown below. Continue with the back look slip stitch until the ring is as long as you want it.

Finish when you started, remembering to leave so extra thread

Take the threads and knot them on the inside to get everything out of the way 

The flower it really simple:
Chain 1 
In the first chain: dc, sl st, dc, sl st, dc, sl st, dc, sl st, dc, sl st, finish off 

I colored it with nail polish because I didn't have any other colors. It worked very well, even made it more stiff. 

Tie the flower into the front (across from where the ring was started and ended) with a simple knot at the back.

Here is the finished project. 

Thanks for reading!